Sur le blog Thirstythought29/10/2016 09:32
I’m no Pro surfer- heck, I even need someone to tell me which waves to catch every single time. But if there’s one thing that gives me an inexplainable feeling of pure happiness- it’s surfing. It’s not just about being able to stand up- it’s everything before and after that. The fun starts when you gear up, when you hop on board the back of someones motorbike barefoot and feel the wind in your hair as you make your way to the spot. It’s waking up early in the morning to catch the the tide. It’s waxing the board (a lot), or using your arm strength to carry said board across the platform. It’s paddling out and trying to...
- LangueAnglais

